Due to our Black Friday order volume we have about a 10 business day fullfilment time. We apologize for the inconvenience.
SKU: R1768 The Cure!
*As of April 2019 Ruffstuff Tie Rod Ends are a new design. There is also a new design of the cure for these new Tie Rod Ends. Refer to the pictures showing the difference of the new and old design Tie Rod Ends and Cures.
*Cure may vary in color depending on material available*
For as long as there have been vehicles with Y style steering they have wandered down the road. Wandering along... The steering wheel goes two inches to the right, two inches to the left and then back again, while your vehicle stays in a relatively straight line. That is the result of your Tie Rod rolling forward and backward, forward and backward again and again. That's simply because there is nothing there to prevent it from doing that. And early wear on tie rods simply because they are always in motion. This results in torn tie rod boots because they have been flexed a jillion times in.
This small piece of machined Delrin plastic has had a lot of thought put into it. Used against only the face of common Y-Link Tie Rod ends. It gives a self lubricated, fixed yet slightly flexible surface for the tie rod to rest against. The drag link does not flop forward or backward whatsoever yet in common usage it is allowed to roll which causes the steering wheel dead spot and allows for the tie rod roll. Not all TRE's are created equal. Some have a long pin, some have a short pin. This product has been specifically made to work with a GM 1 Ton TRE. In some cases you may have to sand the outside surface to allow for a flush fit. You do not want a tight fit, you want a snug fit. It naturally has a grease pocket built in. In most cases the tie rod boot may need to be removed to properly seat the tie rod end, but will also fit over the boot.
Manufacturing tolerances in the pin and the taper cause some tie rod ends to seat higher or lower in the taper than others. One sign that the taper is not completely seated is if the cotter pin hole does not sit as far through the castle nut as it did with the standard dust boot. To verify your pin is seated in the taper, apply a marking compound (like gear marking compound, grease, lipstick, etc.) to the pin and tighten down the tie rod end then remove it again. Check the pin and taper to see if the marking compound is spread thinly and evenly around the pin. If it does not spread evenly, the pin is likely not seated completely. Sand down the face of The Cure until the pin seats fully. Depending on the shape of your tie rod ends, some filing may also be required to prevent interferences around the lip or face of The Cure.
Fix Your Steering With The Cure!